Lea Bias Dress sewing pattern by Soften Studio
As soon as Melody of Soften Studio released her latest pattern, the Lea Bias Dress, I made the purchase. The dress looked like the perfect versatile basic and I imagined sewing it up in my favorite mid-weight linen.
Because I seem to have a particularly difficult time honoring my “always make a toile” resolution, I scoured other sewists’ sizing notes before deciding which size to cut. I read a couple of comments about the bust and armpits being snug, so I began to think that sizing up—instead of my frequent choice to size down—would yield the best fit. I also noticed that the bust measurements for the finished garment were very close to the corresponding body measurements, so I cut one size up, a 10. My only modifications were to slightly lower the neckline and armpits based on personal preference.
Lea Bias Dress sewing pattern by Soften Studio
Once I had the dress pieced together, I realized that it was a touch too loose, so I adjusted by increasing the seam allowances at both the side and shoulder seams, effectively making it a size 8. The result was a perfectly-fitted dress.
As I become more familiar with bias cut garments, I understand that they have more “give” and conform to the body in a way that straight grain garments do not. After all my sizing deliberation, I should have elected to sew the size that matched my actual bust measurement despite the pattern’s lack of ease in that region. For the next version, I’ll cut my suggested size, repeat the armpit modification and further lower the neckline for less coverage up top.
I’ve worn this dress a bunch already. I adore its draped silhouette that can be dressed up or down depending on how it’s styled. I’m also excited to wear it during colder weather and can already imagine it paired with a turtle neck and boots.
Lea Bias Dress sewing pattern by Soften Studio