Men’s All Day Shirt sewing pattern by Liesl + Co
Making a short sleeve button down for my husband was on my to-do list for over a year. After finding the perfect fabric and a promising pattern, I finally began.
I took careful measurements of both my husband and his ready-to-wear shirts and compared them to the finished garment measurements listed on the pattern. I studied numerous notes and reviews from folks who’d already made the shirt. Despite my careful preparation, however, it was just too small.
The reason for this is that I was mainly concerned with comparing chest (pit-to-pit) and waist measurements, but failed to consider upper chest volume, shoulder width and the presence of back pleats. Also, I’m used to sewing easy-fitting tops for myself for which nuanced measurements are not necessary.
I decided to remake the shirt in the next size up and am ultimately glad that I did. Even though the first version was sewn nicely, the second version is even nicer. The extra tweaks to the latter really took it to the next level.
Men’s All Day Shirt sewing pattern by Liesl + Co
For the curious, below are the details and modifications for the final shirt (pictured in this post):
Cut a size large—my husband’s typical shirt size—in view B
Added 1” of length to the collar band and collar and widened the neck opening to accommodate the extra length (If you’d like to actually button the top button, pay attention to the collar measurements. In my opinion, it runs quite small.)
Omitted pocket stays for collar and instead created a facing similar to the view A collar
Squared off bottom of pocket and omitted flap
Reduced the length of the shirt by 3/4” (model is 5’10”)
Shortened sleeves
If I use the pattern again, there are still a couple of fit issues that I’d like to work out. First, the shoulders tend to pull forward, creating slight drag lines that extend from the front collar area to the armpit. I wonder if this is inherent to the pattern, if there’s still a sizing issue or if it’s perhaps related to my neck-widening adjustment. There’s also a taper at the waist that I may straighten out.
Detailed view of Men’s All Day Shirt sewing pattern by Liesl + Co
Sewing this shirt was not only a learning experience in terms of fitting but also in sewing with a new fabric. The cotton poplin was the finest and crispest fabric I’d ever used—it almost felt synthetic. To achieve the stitching look that I wanted, a super fine thread and microtex needle were needed. As I gain experience sewing with various fabrics, it becomes clear that needle type, thread weight and machine tension all play a huge role in creating a professional looking garment. After this project, I’m recommitting to making toiles (again, lol)—especially for tailored projects with high-quality fabric.
Overall, I’m pleased with this project and the recipient really likes the shirt. If there’s anything better than wearing my own handiwork, it may be seeing it on someone else.
Men’s All Day Shirt sewing pattern by Liesl + Co